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September 23, 2007
Jaisalmer, the desert oasis
Our overnight train to Jaisalmer was on time (seriously!), and our hotel picked us up at 6:30 AM and even let us check into our room w/o additional charge. Jais would be our longest stop, with a 2 day, 1 night camel safari in the middle. It is dominated by a huge fort which is still occupied and has become very touristy in recent years. The Lonely Planet seems to have information that the increased strain caused by drainage from tourist hotels and restaurants in the fort is degrading the structure, and in the 2007 edition which came out while we were there, it had delisted every establishment, even shops, inside the fort -- which had the people in the fort pissed off, and the hotels and shops outside the fort very, very happy.
The politics of the Planet are very interesting, and you have to take even their comments with a grain of salt; did they talk to someone outside the fort who overplayed the degradation card to get better listings/recommendations for outside the fort? Or are the hoteliers and others inside the fort downplaying it?
Regardless, A and I had the best time wandering the fort in this city. Inside, the shopkeepers were so very friendly, giving reasonable first prices and happy to just chat. No pressures, not even the normal rounds of scams we were used to. It was a breath of fresh desert air and really was needed after so many hassles and scams in the other cities.
We spent a good chunk of one day with bookmakers who made a hardbacked folder to A's exacting specifications (she chose the exact piece of patchwork for the cover, dimensions, folder sizes, etc.), and I bought a nice leather (camel hide, cow hide wouldn't be proper) book that I've yet to decide what to do with.
Clothes shopping is similarly pleasant. You find a shirt that you like, and they tailor it (no additional charge) to your specifications. Don't like the length? pockets? too big? no problem! I picked up two indian-ish shirts for about $10USD
Jain Temples
A has most of the photos for the Jain Temples, but here's one from the outside
Jews harps!
Called a morchang in Rajasthan (other things in different parts of India), it's popular in folk music. I regret not buying a CD with a 'harp track on it. 
Evening at the fort, and Jon discovers his time-lapse mode!
Posted by griffjon at September 23, 2007 09:30 PM
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